Pizza Rustica (Focaccia Filled with Tomato, Onions, and Olives)
This is a simple dish, a classic example of Puglias peasant cuisine. The key is the onions, which are sauteed so gently that they dont ever color; during baking, they turn deliciously jammy and sweet. Its also common to see one of the following additional ingredients in the filling: yellow tomatoes (a local tomato that is orange-yellow, small, sweet, and smooth), oregano, capers, tinned tuna, blanched bitter greens, or perhaps a touch of chile. But when making your own, resist going overboard with the add-ins and choose only one (if any): The humble onions are still going to be the hero. This recipe is adapted from one by Ada Boni (Regional Italian Cooking, 1987) and she doesnt specify a dough recipe. You can use any basic bread or pizza dough that you prefer. The recipe Ive provided is a very basic dough, easy to whip up and have ready in an hour if you dont have the time to leave it overnight. A slow-rise no-knead dough that you can make the night before and pop in the fridge would be great, too. Instead of trying to roll out or stretch the dough, just spread it around with an offset spatula or similar tool.
This is a simple dish, a classic example of Puglias peasant cuisine. The key is the onions, which are sauteed so gently that they dont ever color; during baking, they turn deliciously jammy and sweet. Its also common to see one of the following additional ingredients in the filling: yellow tomatoes (a local tomato that is orange-yellow, small, sweet, and smooth), oregano, capers, tinned tuna, blanched bitter greens, or perhaps a touch of chile. But when making your own, resist going overboard with the add-ins and choose only one (if any): The humble onions are still going to be the hero. This recipe is adapted from one by Ada Boni (Regional Italian Cooking, 1987) and she doesnt specify a dough recipe. You can use any basic bread or pizza dough that you prefer. The recipe Ive provided is a very basic dough, easy to whip up and have ready in an hour if you dont have the time to leave it overnight. A slow-rise no-knead dough that you can make the night before and pop in the fridge would be great, too. Instead of trying to roll out or stretch the dough, just spread it around with an offset spatula or similar tool.
- 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 pinch salt
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 1 cup (250 milliliters) tepid water
- 1 3/4 teaspoons (5 grams) active dry yeast or 20 grams fresh yeast
- 3 medium yellow onions peeled, cut in half, and thinly sliced
- 14 ounces (400 grams) canned peeled tomatoes
- about 12 anchovy fillets in oil (30 grams) drained
- 1/2 cup good quality black olives pitted
- Carbohydrate 59.2557500689577 g
- Cholesterol 0 mg
- Fat 0.762291667567892 g
- Fiber 2.90375006350398 g
- Protein 7.81645834252211 g
- Saturated Fat 0.135391666809748 g
- Serving Size 1 1 Serving (194g)
- Sodium 928.241667846621 mg
- Sugar 56.3520000054537 g
- Trans Fat 0.248733333630645 g
- Calories 280 calories
Step-by-step
- For the dough: If using dry yeast, just mix all of the ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. If using fresh yeast, crumble it into 1/4 cup of the water and let sit for 5 minutes or until it softens; mix gently with a spoon, then add the rest of the ingredients. Bring together to form a dough.
- You can knead by machine or by hand; for the latter, it will be about 10 minutes of pushing, folding, pulling, etc. until it is no longer sticky and the ball of dough is beautifully smooth and elastic (bounces back if you poke it).
- Place the kneaded dough in an oiled bowl, drizzle a bit of oil over the top, cover with a tea towel or plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
- For the filling: Gently heat the olive oil in a wide skillet and add the onions with a pinch of salt. Let sweat gently until they begin to soften but not color, then add the tomatoes, breaking them up with your spoon when theyre in the pan. Add a splash of water and cook over low-medium heat for about 10 to 15 minutes, or until the tomato sauce thickens. Remove from the heat.
- When the dough is ready, preheat the oven to 400° F. Divide into two equal parts. Take one half and roll it out or stretch it with your hands until its about 1/4-inch thick. Place on a baking tray lined with baking paper and continue stretching gently, forming the dough into a rough rectangle shape until its as thin as you can get it. Spread the onion and tomato mixture evenly over the top, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge. Lay the anchovy fillets and pitted olives over top, distributing evenly.
- Roll out or stretch the rest of the dough to roughly the same size and shape (dont worry too much about holes—they dont call this rustic pizza for nothing) and lay it over the top, pulling the edges to meet up. Seal the edges by gently pressing down. Poke holes all over the top of the dough with a fork and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown.
- Remove and let cool slightly before cutting into squares. This is also very good served cold the next day, even if the bread is not as crisp.
Pizza Rustica: A Taste of Puglia
My love affair with Italian cuisine started, as many do, with a simple pizza. But this isn't just any pizza; it's Pizza Rustica, a Puglian masterpiece that transcends the typical Margherita. This focaccia-like bread, bursting with flavour, encapsulates the essence of rustic Italian cooking. It's the kind of dish that makes you feel like you're sitting under the Tuscan sun, even if you're just in your kitchen.
The beauty of Pizza Rustica lies in its simplicity. It’s not about complicated techniques or rare ingredients. The magic is in the slow, gentle cooking of the onions, which caramelize beautifully, turning sweet and jammy. The flavour profile is a perfect balance of savory and sweet, tangy from the tomatoes and olives, and umami from the anchovies. This is a dish built on classic combinations, creating a symphony of tastes that dance on your tongue.
What truly sets Pizza Rustica apart is the story it tells. This isn’t just a recipe; it’s a window into the soul of Puglian cuisine, reflecting the ingenuity of peasant cooks who made the most of readily available ingredients. The rustic nature of the dough, with its intentionally uneven texture, only adds to its charm. It’s a reminder that perfection isn't always about precision; sometimes, the most beautiful things are born from simplicity.
I've adapted this recipe from Ada Boni's wonderful book "Regional Italian Cooking," but I've made it my own. While Ada's recipe is an inspiration, I've found ways to simplify the process while maintaining the authentic flavour profile. For instance, you don't need to spend hours making the dough from scratch. A simple, quick dough works perfectly, though using a slow-rise dough, made the night before, enhances the flavour even further.
The versatility of Pizza Rustica is also remarkable. While the classic version features onions, tomatoes, olives and anchovies, there's room for personal creativity. You can add ingredients like yellow tomatoes, oregano, capers, tuna, or even a hint of chili to tailor it to your preferences. However, I recommend sticking to one or two additions at most. The star of the show will always be those beautifully caramelized onions!
Making this pizza is a therapeutic experience. The gentle kneading of the dough, the slow cooking of the onions and tomatoes, the simple act of layering the ingredients – these processes are calming and meditative. It's a reminder that cooking is more than just making a meal; it's an act of love, patience and creativity.
Whether you're a seasoned chef or a novice in the kitchen, Pizza Rustica is a recipe that welcomes all skill levels. It's a celebration of simple ingredients, transformed into something extraordinary. So, gather your ingredients, preheat your oven and prepare to embark on a culinary journey to the heart of Puglia. The aroma alone is worth the effort. Once you taste this delightful pizza, you’ll understand why it's become a staple in my kitchen and a favourite among family and friends.
Serve it warm or cold, as a standalone meal or as part of a larger spread. Pizza Rustica is equally enjoyable as a casual weeknight dinner or a show-stopping centerpiece for a special occasion. And the leftovers? They're even better the next day, with the flavors having had time to meld beautifully!
So, embrace the rustic charm, the simplicity, and the incredible taste of Pizza Rustica. It's a recipe that will quickly become a cherished part of your culinary repertoire. It's more than just food; it's an experience, a story, and a taste of Italy right in your home.
