Croissants
These golden, crunchy croissants that we permit ourselves to enjoy without the slightest remorse on Sunday mornings are not as French as you might think. These pastries, known in French as viennoiserie, indeed originated from seventeenth-century Vienna. In 1683, the inhabitants of the Austrian capital suffered an attack led by the forces of the Ottoman Grand Vizier Kara Mustafa. After months of a terrible siege, they were liberated by Charles V of Lorraine and Jan Sobieski, King of Poland. This victory enabled the Hapsburgs to recover their territories of Hungary and Croatia, and the bakers made a commemorative pastry in the form of a crescent moon, the symbol of the Ottoman Empire. Folk history even accords the bakers a crucial role in reversing the battle situation. As they worked during the night, they heard the sound of the Turkish soldiers preparing a new assault and sounded the alarm. Their version of the croissant was nevertheless closer to the brioche than the croissant that we know today. A century later, Marie-Antoinette is said to have brought this delicacy from her native city to introduce it to the French court. Giles MacDonogh, however, author of a biography of Brillat-Savarin, offers a version that corresponds more closely with the dates when the croissant appeared in France (around 1900). He mentions the arrival in Paris, in 1838, of an Austrian named Auguste Zang, who opened a Viennese bakery at 92 rue Richelieu. The croissant was born. Nowadays, any croissant untouched by human hand is suspect. The dough needs to be kneaded gently, then vigorously, until it can be detached from marble, and pieces of it shaped into a ball. The surface of each ball is then dried with a sprinkling of flour and covered with a damp cloth. Then the waiting begins. The dough is mixed with worked butter, punched down, then folded, turned, and set to rise again. This craftsmanship is becoming rarer, and the challenge is to live up to the legend, to match the taste of these handmade croissants, with their melting, silky layers of pastry.
These golden, crunchy croissants that we permit ourselves to enjoy without the slightest remorse on Sunday mornings are not as French as you might think. These pastries, known in French as viennoiserie, indeed originated from seventeenth-century Vienna. In 1683, the inhabitants of the Austrian capital suffered an attack led by the forces of the Ottoman Grand Vizier Kara Mustafa. After months of a terrible siege, they were liberated by Charles V of Lorraine and Jan Sobieski, King of Poland. This victory enabled the Hapsburgs to recover their territories of Hungary and Croatia, and the bakers made a commemorative pastry in the form of a crescent moon, the symbol of the Ottoman Empire. Folk history even accords the bakers a crucial role in reversing the battle situation. As they worked during the night, they heard the sound of the Turkish soldiers preparing a new assault and sounded the alarm. Their version of the croissant was nevertheless closer to the brioche than the croissant that we know today. A century later, Marie-Antoinette is said to have brought this delicacy from her native city to introduce it to the French court. Giles MacDonogh, however, author of a biography of Brillat-Savarin, offers a version that corresponds more closely with the dates when the croissant appeared in France (around 1900). He mentions the arrival in Paris, in 1838, of an Austrian named Auguste Zang, who opened a Viennese bakery at 92 rue Richelieu. The croissant was born. Nowadays, any croissant untouched by human hand is suspect. The dough needs to be kneaded gently, then vigorously, until it can be detached from marble, and pieces of it shaped into a ball. The surface of each ball is then dried with a sprinkling of flour and covered with a damp cloth. Then the waiting begins. The dough is mixed with worked butter, punched down, then folded, turned, and set to rise again. This craftsmanship is becoming rarer, and the challenge is to live up to the legend, to match the taste of these handmade croissants, with their melting, silky layers of pastry.
- 1 large egg yolk
- 2 whole eggs
- dash of fine salt
- 1 tbsp (12 g) active dry yeast
- 7 tbsp (100 g) whole milk, warmed to 68â°f
- 2 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour
- 1 tbsp (12 g) fleur de sel de guã©rande (or other fine sea salt)
- 6 tbsp (75 g) superfine granulated sugar
- 2 1/4 tbsp (35 g) very soft unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp (15 g) whole dry milk powder
- 2/3 cup (145 g) still mineral water, warmed to 68â°f
- 3 sticks (325 g) unsalted cold butter
- Carbohydrate 20 g(7%)
- Cholesterol 54 mg(18%)
- Fat 13 g(20%)
- Fiber 1 g(3%)
- Protein 3 g(7%)
- Saturated Fat 8 g(41%)
- Sodium 127 mg(5%)
- Calories 210
Step-by-step
- Make the croissant dough. Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk.
- Sift the all-purpose flour, then incorporate the sea salt, sugar, very soft butter, dry milk powder, two-thirds of the warm still mineral water, and the yeast dissolved in milk. Knead the mixture briefly. Add more of the remaining water if the dough appears to be too firm.
- Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and keep it at room temperature (ideally at 72°F [20°C]) for between 1 and 1 1/2 hours, or until the dough has doubled in volume.
- Punch down the dough to its initial volume and cover it with plastic wrap again. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Punch it down again and place in the freezer for 30 minutes.
- Remove the dough from the freezer. Pound half the cold butter with a rolling pin to soften, then knead butter with hands forming a rectangle. Sprinkle a work surface with flour and roll out a long rectangle of dough; it should be three times longer than it is wide. Place the butter against the lower edge of the dough. With the palm of your hand, pull the butter over the dough until it covers two-thirds of it. Wrap the remaining third of the dough over the two-thirds covered in butter. Fold the lowest third of the buttered part over the other third, then wrap the upper third over it.
- Place the dough in the freezer for 30 minutes, then refrigerate for 1 hour.
- Roll out the dough as before and proceed in the same way with the other half of the butter. Place the dough in the freezer again for 30 minutes, then refrigerate for 1 hour.
- Sprinkle a work surface with all-purpose flour, and roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/8 inch (3 mm). Using a sharp knife, cut out isosceles triangles 8 inches (20 cm) high and with a base measuring 4 1/2 (12 cm) inches. Place each triangle on the work surface with the base pointing toward you. Roll it up on itself, then curve the ends into a crescent, or croissant, shape.
- Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. As you finish shaping the croissants, place them on the lined sheets, spacing them 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Set them aside at room temperature to proof for about 1 1/2 hours.
- Preheat a convection oven to 410°F (210°C).
- Make the glaze. Whisk together the egg yolk, eggs, and salt in a bowl. Using a pastry brush, coat the croissants with the glaze.
- Place the croissants in the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake for 20 minutes.
- Remove from the oven and transfer the croissants to wire racks to cool.
The Unexpected History of the Croissant: A Culinary Journey Through Time
The aroma of freshly baked croissants, their golden-brown crusts glistening under the morning light, is a sensory experience that transcends mere breakfast. But have you ever considered the surprisingly rich history behind this beloved pastry? The croissant, often associated with French culinary heritage, boasts a story that stretches back to 17th-century Vienna, a far cry from the Parisian patisseries we often imagine. Its origins are intertwined with a significant historical event: the Ottoman siege of Vienna in 1683.
During this pivotal siege, Viennese bakers, working tirelessly through the night, not only baked bread to sustain their city but also played an unwitting role in the city's defense. Their alertness to the movements of the Ottoman army allowed them to raise the alarm, contributing to the ultimate victory of the allied forces. To commemorate this triumph, these resourceful bakers created a crescent-shaped pastry, mirroring the symbol of the Ottoman Empire – a symbolic gesture that transformed into a culinary masterpiece. However, the original Viennese pastry was more akin to a brioche than the flaky, buttery croissant we know and love today.
The journey of the croissant to France is equally fascinating and involves a few different narratives. While the popular story attributes its introduction to Marie Antoinette, bringing a taste of her homeland to the French court, other accounts suggest a more direct lineage. The arrival of Auguste Zang, an Austrian baker, in Paris in 1838, marked a significant turning point. Zang's Viennese bakery, located near the Brillat-Savarin building, quickly gained popularity for its kipferl cookies, a precursor to the croissant. These cookies, baked in a state-of-the-art steam oven, sparked a craze, and the croissant as we know it was born.
The traditional croissant-making process is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. It demands patience, precision, and an understanding of the subtle nuances of dough and butter. The gentle yet vigorous kneading, the careful layering and folding of butter, the precise timing of fermentation—each step is crucial in achieving that perfect, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The process is a blend of art and science, a culinary dance where technique and timing harmonize to produce a masterpiece.
Today, the croissant remains a symbol of indulgence and celebration. Whether savored with a cup of coffee on a Sunday morning or enjoyed as a sophisticated afternoon treat, each bite is a journey through time, a connection to centuries of culinary history and tradition. The croissant is not just a pastry; it's a story, a legacy, a delicious testament to human ingenuity and the enduring power of a crescent moon.
The Modern Croissant: A Symbol of Craftsmanship and Indulgence
Despite the rise of mass-produced pastries, the allure of the handmade croissant persists. The dedication to the traditional method, the time-consuming process, and the commitment to quality ingredients all contribute to the unique appeal of this pastry. The handmade croissant is more than just a breakfast item; it’s an experience, a small luxury that speaks volumes about the artistry involved in its creation.
The challenge for modern bakers lies in upholding the legacy of the croissant, ensuring that the taste, texture, and history of this iconic pastry continue to resonate with generations to come. The careful selection of ingredients, the mastery of technique, and the unwavering pursuit of perfection are all essential elements in preserving the authentic essence of the croissant.
It’s a testament to the lasting appeal of traditional methods that the handmade croissant continues to thrive in a world of convenience and mass production. The dedication to the craft, the meticulous attention to detail, and the unmistakable taste of a truly authentic croissant are what set it apart, reminding us that some things are simply worth the wait.
The next time you bite into a freshly baked croissant, remember the story behind its creation. Imagine the Viennese bakers of the 17th century, their unwavering spirit and resourcefulness reflected in the simple yet elegant form of this pastry. Let the flaky layers and buttery richness transport you back in time, reminding you of the remarkable journey this humble crescent moon of pastry has taken, from a wartime commemoration to a globally cherished culinary icon.
